What I Wish I Knew When I Started Gardening in Zone 3
What I Wish I Knew When I Started Gardening in Zone 3
Ten years ago, I started my garden without much knowledge of what would thrive in Zone 3. I’ve made plenty of mistakes—planting the wrong varieties, overstuffing beds, underestimating how aggressive some perennials can be. But with time, trial, and some stubborn plants that refused to die, I’ve learned which ones not only survive but thrive. If you're in a colder climate and want a garden that’s both beautiful and easy to manage long-term, here’s what I’ve learned—no fluff, just what works.
Perennials Over Annuals—Especially as You Age
When I started, I leaned heavily on annuals. The bursts of color were tempting, but replacing them every year became exhausting—and expensive. Perennials are a smarter investment. They come back every spring, often stronger, and once they’re established, they need less maintenance. As I’ve gotten older, I appreciate that I can enjoy a full garden without replanting half of it every year. It’s also easier on the knees.
The Back Row Powerhouses
For structure and height, plant your tallest perennials at the back of your garden. These include:
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Delphiniums: These striking vertical bloomers can grow up to 6 feet tall. Hummingbirds love them. Deadhead them after blooming to prevent reseeding and encourage a second flush.
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Maltese Cross: Bold, bright red flowers on tall stems. They’re eye-catching and big. Deadheading is essential to keep them in check.
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Peonies: These are long-term investments. Don’t move them once planted—they take a few years to settle in and bloom. But once they do, they reward you with lush, fragrant flowers year after year.
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Purple Clematis: I’ve had luck with the purple varieties in Zone 3; the white ones didn’t make it. Give them something to climb and a sunny spot, and they’ll come back reliably.
Mid-Height Blooms That Pull Their Weight
These go in the middle rows—bold enough to be noticed, compact enough not to block the back:
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Bee Balm (Monarda): I planted it late in the season, and it still survived the harsh winter. It’s a pollinator magnet. It is also smells good.
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Salvias and Veronicas: Both are cold-hardy, come in blues and purples, and bloom reliably once established.
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Lavender: Make sure you’re buying a hardy variety suitable for Zone 3. It’s more finicky but worth it.
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Liatris: Spiky purple blooms that prefer sun. Mine took a few years to really take off because I mistakenly planted them in shade.
Front Row Favorites
Lower-growing plants are best for the front of your beds:
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Globe Flower: Bright yellow or white blooms that bring cheerful color in early summer. Short and tidy—perfect for the front.
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Columbines: These come in a range of colors and bloom beautifully. Deadheading is a must unless you want them popping up everywhere.
Caution: Spreading Plants
Not all perennials know when to stop. A few of my favorites are also the ones that take over if not managed:
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Irises: Gorgeous, but aggressive. Plant them in areas where you don’t mind them spreading. They’ll crowd out anything in their path.
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Day Lilies: Also prolific. I thin mine out yearly to keep them from overrunning their neighbors.
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Asian Lilies: They handle cold winters well and multiply quickly. Like day lilies, they need space and occasional thinning.
Deadheading is a theme with many perennials—delphiniums, columbines, Maltese cross. If you don’t cut them back after blooming, they’ll reseed and take over areas you didn’t intend.
The Perks of Too Much
One surprising benefit of overzealous perennials? Sharing. Every year I divide and give away extras to friends and family. It’s a good way to keep your garden in check while spreading beauty around.
Final Thought
If I could go back and tell my beginning-gardener self one thing, it would be this: Think long-term. Choose perennials that suit your climate, structure your garden with height in mind, and don’t be afraid to thin out or share. Your future self—and your knees—will thank you.
